The $100,000 Top Chef!

 He is not just an ordinary chef but someone who has made a mark in the profession abroad. The Sip of Life this week talks to Floyd Cardoz, a Mumbai-born who had trained to be a biochemist, but a few months back it was the humble upma that got him to walk home with the top honour of Top Chefs Masters Season 3, a US TV show that fetched him $100,000.

Cardoz has many other achievements to his credit. He talks to us about his journey with food that brought him laurels all these years and is sure to bring more in years to come.

How did you ‘dish out’ cooking out of all professions?



I grew up in Bombay. There was always lots of cooking going on in my house but I never even thought about the hospitality business. I always wanted to go into medicine. I went to graduate school and studied Biochemistry. Midway through my Masters, I read Arthur Halley’s “Hotel” and had a life changing moment. I went on to the Institute of Hotel Management in Bombay, where I realized my passion for the culinary arts and learned that I had the skill set to excel at it. I’ve never looked back since.

Tell us something about your initial days into this profession?

In 1984, I did a summer internship at Taj Mahal Intercontinental Hotel, working six days a week from 8 a.m.-11 p.m. (at 150 rupees). One task I remember vividly – I was handed two, 100 kilo bag of onions to peel. Despite this daunting introduction to food service, I remained a loyal apprentice to the famed hotel throughout school. 
To broaden my familiarity with classic culinary technique, I moved to Switzerland. My days were spent in class at Les Roches, a Hotel Management Culinary School in Bluche, where I received a diploma in Hotel Restaurant Management and Administration. My evenings were continuously filled with cooking engagements in Italian, French and Indian establishments. 
Ironically, it was my European training that instilled in me a desire to begin experimenting with traditional Indian cuisine.

What made you take a decision to move to New York?
I returned to India, excited to unfold my ideas of this new type of Indian cuisine, but found the restaurants there were resistant to innovation. Faced with limited opportunities for creativity, I moved to New York, where adventures in gastronomic matters were celebrated. 
After cooking for three years in America’s food hub, I met a chef who shared my passion for infusing top-notch ingredients with Asian flavors. Gray Kunz, chef of New York’s venerable Lespinasse and the man I credit as my mentor, welcomed my ideas. Kunz embraced the use of Indian spices in his own kitchen, where he had already pioneered a taste for Asian-influenced French foods. I rose from Chef de Partie to Executive Sous Chef during my six years at the world-famous restaurant.

How and when do you think success come your way?


In 1997, Danny Meyer approached me about opening a “New Indian” restaurant in NYC – it would be the first of its kind blending American and European cooking techniques and local ingredients with the flavors and cooking of my homeland. This was a dream for me, and there was immediate excitement about it. We received a glowing three-star review from Ruth Reichl at The New York Times, and the restaurant was included on Zagat’s Most Popular list for 12 years. I was also nominated for four James Beard awards for Best Chef New York. In 2007, I wrote a cookbook “One Spice Two Spice” featuring recipes from Tabla. I currently have a line of meals with Fresh Direct, which has been their most popular chef line. Three years ago, I conceived El Verano, a Mexican taqueria, based at Citi Field, home of the NY Mets (of which I am a big fan); we also just opened another location of El Verano at the Nationals baseball stadium in Washington DC. And now, I am working with Danny on designing and opening North End Grill in NYC’s Battery Park City. I have been part of Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality group for the past 15 years. I now live in New Jersey with wife Barkha (also a graduate of IHMCTAN Bombay) and my two sons, Peter & Justin.

How did you think of having Tabla as the name of your restaurant and why did it close down?



Tabla was named because we felt, just like the Tablas are a huge part of western music, Indian food and flavors would also become part of the American lexicon in cuisine. Tabla was a vibrant and stunning restaurant during its 12 year run; we were constantly evolving and trying to be better. The restaurant was a pioneer for Indian cuisine and really helped to spark more like-minded restaurants across the country. Indian cooking is still not considered a mainstream cuisine in the US. After 12 years we felt that with the increasing cost structure of the restaurant and sales not increasing, our profit margins were decreasing. We would have to renovate and spend a significant amount to do so. We helped set the bar really high for Indian and Indian influenced restaurants and didn’t want to cut corners or offer less to our guests. Another factor was that the restaurant was very large – 290 seats – and it became more challenging to fill day after day.

After one restaurant closing down, how did you plan coming up with North End Grill, a seafood-led restaurant?


North End Grill was conceived even before we decided to close Tabla. We felt like we could really add a new perspective to seafood restaurants as they currently exist today, with a focus on grilling which has always been something I loved to do. When I was 17 years old in India, I used to organize grilling events for my friends on most weekends. And I often grill at home with my family. And while many people know me for the New Indian cuisine we prepared at Tabla, I have been cooking with European and American technique for much of my life as well. I am excited to embark on something new, and I definitely feel passionately about putting focus on chefs of Indian descent.

How did you think of participating in the TV show?



I had been invited to participate in “Top Chef” many times over the years but had declined. After Tabla closed, I was asked to participate in Top Chef Masters (for established chefs) and, since I had the free time to do it and thought it would be an interesting challenge, I said “yes”. The participating chefs over the first two seasons were very talented and successful people, for which I had great respect. I was also very happy to represent chefs of Indian descent and possibly open the door for other Indians looking to enter the food business. And lastly, I wanted to start a charity to fund cancer research,and winning the prize money was very tempting for such a cause.

What made you bag the top honour of Top Chefs Masters Season 3? And how did you and your family react when you heard that you were the winner?



It felt really good to be named Top Chef Masters. While on the show, I remained true to myself, and continued to do what I do, cook from my heart. My philosophy in cooking is “good food and cooking is not only how it looks but also how good it makes you feel cooking it and how good your guests feel eating it”. I was not playing to win at all costs (though I certainly wanted to win). I was committed to staying true to who I am. My family was thrilled, and they all told me that they always believed I was going to win.

You have won $100, 000 (Rs 46 lakh) in the show. What are you doing about it?


I am donating my entire winnings of $110, 000 to Young Scientist Cancer Research Fund (YSCRF)

What is your future plan and how do you feel being a celebrity now?

Being on TV certainly brings more attention and recognition and some of that is great fun, but I feel like the same person who came to the US 20 years ago with $100 in my pocket. I want to take the opportunity to focus on all the charities that I am a supporter of, and bring more attention to these important causes. I will continue to mentor and teach all the cooks who come thru my kitchen. Next up, we will be opening North End Grill at the end of this year. I also hope to bring more focus on Indian food and flavors in the west. My ultimate goal is to someday open a restaurant in India.